English Can we call it a revolution, if it’s the way things have been going for hundreds of years? Perhaps. Italy, together with a few other countries like France and Greece, has a long history of being a land where the freshest, tastiest produce is also the cheapest.
In Italy, buying directly from farmers isn’t a niche hipster trend or a way to pay 20 bucks for a brace of zucchini. It’s a beloved mainstream practice rooted in tradition and savvy economics. Each week, millions of Italians flock to local markets and farm shops for their fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and meats, enjoying unmatched freshness and savings. Surveys show that 73% of Italians believe buying directly from farmers is the best way to ensure food quality and safety, and 86% wish they had a nearby farmers’ market.
It’s no wonder Italy has built Europe’s largest network of farmers’ markets, with over 1,200 markets serving 15 million consumers – a model now admired worldwide. The direct-from-farm model is culturally embedded here, and it’s not just better for taste – it’s better for your wallet, especially compared to the hefty grocery bills in the UK or US. And farming in Italy can be an enticing way for expats and retirees to find their new life’s calling in the country.
The farm produce price gap: from field to supermarket (194% markups?!)
Walk through an Italian farmers’ market and you’ll notice prices that make supermarket tags look outrageous. Based on our very own research, which involved wholesale data from ISMEA and supermarket retail prices, Italian supermarkets charge nearly triple (+194%) the price of the same produce bought direct from the farm. Farmers are selling at fair wholesale prices, while retail chains pile on markups for distribution, packaging, and profit. The differences are striking:
- A kilo of fennel, for example, wholesales for about €0.37 direct from the farmer, yet costs €2.18 in an Italian supermarket – a staggering 489% increase.
- Zucchini (courgettes) more than double in price from €0.96 at the farm to €1.99 in stores (+107%), and tomatoes see ~93% markup. Even the more “modest” markups, like carrots at +83%, mean consumers pay nearly double what the farmer earned.
Figure: Italian supermarket produce prices are on average nearly triple the direct-from-farm prices. Fennel is an extreme case – almost 500% more expensive in the supermarket. Data from ISMEA (wholesale) and Italian supermarkets, May–June 2025.
These price gaps aren’t just theoretical. For a family buying 5 kg of veggies a week, the savings of shopping farm-direct could be on the order of €1.25 per kg – about €325 saved per year. And it’s not only about money: produce from the farmer is often harvested at peak ripeness and sold within a day or two, so you get fresher, more flavorful food without the week-long cold storage that supermarket produce endures.
What about abroad? Italy’s DTF advantage becomes even clearer when you compare internationally. In the UK, for instance, fennel sells for around £5–5.50 per kilo (≈€5.80–6.40) in a Waitrose or Sainsbury’s – easily 3 times the Italian supermarket price and nearly 17 times the Italian farm price! In U.S. groceries, fennel often goes for $3.99 per pound (≈$8.80 per kg), which is about €7.7 per kg, again vastly higher than Italian rates.
The pattern holds for many items: what Italians pay buying retail can still be lower than what consumers in London or New York pay at the store, and Italians buying wholesale from farmers enjoy an even bigger edge. In short, Italy’s farm-direct system offers produce at prices that Anglo-American shoppers could only dream of.
Did you know? Italy has quickly built the world’s most extensive network of direct-to-consumer farmers’ markets, surpassing even France and the US in just a few years. Organized under the Campagna Amica network by the farmers’ association Coldiretti, over 10,000 farms and 1,200 markets now connect producers and consumers directly, generating an estimated €4 billion in sales. No other country’s “farm-to-table” infrastructure comes close.
The age-long Italian love affair with farmers’ markets
Far from a fleeting fad, Italy’s direct-from-farm culture is deeply rooted in heritage. Many Italian families have long preferred the weekly open-air market over the fluorescent supermarket aisles – not only for the deals, but for trust and tradition. Shaking the hand of the farmer who grew your food is simply part of life. This cultural bond means farm-direct shopping isn’t seen as “alternative” or elitist in Italy. It’s utterly mainstream.
Even urbanites in Rome or Milan often know which day the mercato contadino pops up in their neighborhood piazza, and they stock up on seasonal produce, farm eggs, or artisanal cheese with enthusiasm. Contrast that with countries like the U.S., where farmers’ markets are often quaint Saturday excursions for the few, or the UK, where “farm shop” sometimes implies a premium experience. In Italy, it’s the baseline.
Even UNESCO has taken notice: the ancient practice of transumanza – seasonal livestock migration between lowland farms and high mountain pastures – was recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019. If you venture into the Alpine regions in summer, you can visit the malghe – rustic mountain dairy farms – where cows graze on wildflower meadows and farmers handcraft cheese and butter by traditional methods.
These malghe aren’t theme-park recreations; they are living heritage sites, often family-run for generations. Tasting formaggio di malga (alpine farm cheese) at the source or seeing shepherds lead their flocks through highland trails is a powerful reminder that in Italy, agriculture and culture intertwine. As many of these high-altitude farms can only be reached by foot, it is a common activity on Saturday and Sundays for families in Northern Italy to make a pilgrimage to one (or more!) of these alpine food sanctuaries, joining the pleasure of hiking with the delight of local food. And as the Italian saying goes, “hunger is the best seasoning!“.
Agritourism: taste paradise, skip the hype
When many foreigners think “Italian countryside getaway,” they picture overpriced Tuscan villas (sorry if we’re offending anyone) or luxury wine resorts, with celebrity farmers posing on tractors for busloads of tourists. The reality is far more accessible: Italy’s agriturismi (farm stay inns) offer authentic feasts and stays at everyday prices. There are now over 26,000 agriturismo farmhouses across Italy – double the number 20 years ago – ranging from simple B&B rooms on working farms to more polished country retreats.
What they share is a focus on local products and home cooking at reasonable prices. Sunday lunch at an agriturismo is a beloved Italian family outing: you might get a multi-course, farm-fresh meal – perhaps handmade tagliatelle with farm eggs, a roast from the farm’s own livestock, veggies picked that morning, and wine from the vineyard next door – all for a fraction of what a tourist-trap restaurant in Florence would charge.
And it’s not just a Tuscany thing. In fact, agriturismi are spread throughout the country, in two-thirds of all Italian municipalities. From the alpine dairy farms of South Tyrol (which boasts the highest density of agriturismi) to the citrus groves of Sicily, you can find agriturismo stays virtually anywhere you travel. Many are delightfully un-touristy: real working farms where you might wake up to the sound of roosters and join the family in the kitchen for dinner.
The Italian government actively encouraged this growth starting in the 1980s, offering tax breaks to family farms that open their doors to guests – so long as they remain true working farms. (By law, an agriturismo must earn more from agriculture than hospitality, ensuring it’s not just a hotel in disguise) This policy keeps agriturismi grounded and affordable.
For travelers and locals alike, agritourism is a chance to enjoy incredible products in a down-to-earth setting. Instead of a chi-chi Chianti resort, you could stay at a rustic farmhouse in Abruzzo where grandma cooks using the farm’s own lamb, or a vineyard farmhouse in Piedmont where your “hotel” is an old granary amid the vines.
The agriturismo experience isn’t about five-star amenities; it’s about feeling connected to the land and its bounty. And the price? Often shockingly low for what you get – think €50–€80 per person for dinner and a night’s lodging, breakfast included. No wonder 4.5 million “agriturists” visited Italian farm stays in 2023 (over half of them from abroad), discovering that la dolce vita is alive and well in the countryside, far from the tourist crowds.
How Italy succeeds in supporting small-batch farmers
Why does Italy succeed where others struggle to keep small farms viable? One reason is a relatively supportive policy environment for small-scale farmers, from tax perks to light-touch regulation. In some countries, starting a little farm business can be buried in red tape or high costs. In Italy, by contrast, “the bar is really set low” for becoming a farmer. You can register as a sole proprietor farm (azienda agricola) for roughly €200 and minimal bureaucracy – just keep basic records of sales and purchases. Italian law even allows you to open a farming partnership with other people “on a handshake”, although most prefer to put things down on paper these days.
Small farm income under about €7,000/year is tax and VAT exempt, falling under a special “esonero” regime. Only if you grow beyond that threshold do you need to formally register with the Chamber of Commerce as an agricultural enterprise, which entails a modest annual fee and a bit more paperwork. In other words, Italy makes it easy to start small without punitive taxes or permits – a backyard market garden or tiny winery can operate with little overhead.
And while this may sound absolutely incredible to you, Italian farmers do not pay taxes on profits – not the small operation with one hectare of strawberries, not the Instagram celebrity farmer from Tuscany selling Chianti at 200 bucks a bottle: all farm produce is taxed exclusively based on land values. In other words, the same way you pay property tax, farmers pay land tax in lieu of any other tax on their sales.
Crucially, those who commit to farming as a primary livelihood reap further benefits. If more than 50% of your income comes from agriculture, you can attain status as a coltivatore diretto (a small-scale farmer) or imprenditore agricolo professionale (certified professional farmer). These designations confer special rights – most notably, the right to build a home on your agricultural land (since logically, a farmer should live near their fields). In rural Italy, non-farmers often face strict building and zoning restrictions on agricultural land, but recognized farmers can construct a farmhouse or barn relatively easily.
Farmers in Italy also enjoy reduced property taxes on farmland and extremely low transaction taxes if purchasing farmland. For example, under certain schemes land and building acquisitions by young or professional farmers are taxed at just 1% on cadastral values (versus 9% standard, and 15% on agricultural land), reflecting a policy goal to get fresh blood onto idle lands. And fresh blood is needed – as we’ll see next, Italy’s farming population is aging fast.
The government has also shown willingness to step in when farmers face crises. In early 2024, after protests erupted over rising costs and low crop prices, the Italian administration moved to reinstate an income-tax exemption for struggling farmers, essentially shielding small agricultural entrepreneurs from taxation during hard times. “Supporting those who feed the nation” has broad political support in Italy – a country that takes food very seriously. From EU-funded grants for young farmers to regional programs that provide microloans for agribusiness startups, the resources are there if you seek them.
Farming in Italy: the youth dilemma
Despite all these advantages, Italy faces a looming question: who will carry on the farming tradition? The country’s farmers are, on average, 63 years old – many nearing retirement. Only around 7–8% of farm businesses are run by people under 40, a figure far too low to ensure generational turnover. Italy actually lags behind much of Europe in this regard; in the EU overall, nearly one in three farms has a sub-40 leader, but Italy is closer to one in five. The result is a demographic vacuum: as elderly smallholders hang up their hats, there may not be a new wave of young Italians ready (or willing) to replace them.
It’s not for lack of interest – a growing subculture of young Italians is embracing agriculture, drawn by a love of nature, food, and a sustainable lifestyle. But their numbers aren’t yet enough to stem the tide. High land costs in some areas, the physical labour involved, and social pressures to choose white-collar careers all play a role. There’s also the fact that many Italian farms have traditionally been family affairs passed from parents to children; if the kids choose city jobs, the farm often ends with the older generation.
The government and farming associations are responding with initiatives to attract young farmers. Italy’s latest finance laws include favorable tax rates for under-40 entrepreneurs starting farms, and even grants to help buy land and equipment. The EU’s Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) also directs funding specifically to young farmers (each member state must channel at least 3% of its farm subsidies to support them). These incentives have helped – there are success stories of youth-run organic farms, tech-enabled greenhouses, and boutique cheese makers flourishing across Italy. In Tuscany alone, the number of agri-food businesses led by under-35s jumped 7% recently (over 3,000 young-run farms in that region).
Still, as an Avvenire newspaper piece bluntly stated, “a 7.5% youth share is not enough to rejuvenate a sector with an average age of 63”. Without a larger influx of young farmers, entire categories of artisanal products and local crop varieties could eventually decline – and Italy’s countryside could face neglect. All of this presents an opportunity for those who are willing to take up the call of the land – which might even include folks from outside Italy (you?). The demographic gap and pro-farming policies mean Italy is unusually welcoming to new farmers. Which raises a provocative question…
From daydream to dirty hands: should you be a farmer in Italy?
After tasting the sweet peaches of an Italian farm or the pecorino from a mountain malga, you might find yourself fantasizing: Could I do this? Could I become a farmer here? It’s not as far-fetched as it sounds. Italy, more than many countries, lowers the barriers to entry for small-scale agriculture – even for newcomers. If you’ve ever toyed with the idea of running an olive grove, a vineyard, or a farmstay with goats and guests, Italy might be the place to try.
Here’s a rough outline of what it entails to start a farm business in Italy:
- Find your land: You’ll need to purchase or lease agricultural land. The good news is that Italy has plenty of rural property on the market, often at reasonable prices outside of famous regions. (For example, farmland in parts of southern Italy or inland areas can be a bargain compared to rural land in Britain or the U.S.) If you plan to live on-site, look for land with some building or the possibility to construct one – which is allowed for registered farmers. Tip: Magic Towns Italy’s Town Explorer is a great resource for scouting small and mid-sized towns ideal for an agrarian lifestyle, letting you filter for rural locales with good infrastructure and community support.
- Register as a farmer: As a first step, this means opening a Partita IVA (VAT number) with a business code for agriculture. It’s a simple registration – a few forms, about €20 in fees, and you’re a sole-proprietor farmer. If you expect to sell only modestly (under ~€7,000 a year), you can operate in a lightweight regime with almost no taxes and minimal record-keeping required. You’ll just keep basic books (a list of what you sell and buy) and at year’s end report it. Once you grow bigger, you “upgrade” your registration to a full agricultural enterprise, which involves joining the Chamber of Commerce roll (a small annual fee) and charging standard VAT on sales above the threshold. You might also opt to register as an “imprenditore agricolo professionale (IAP)” if you have an agricultural degree or can certify farming as your primary work – this status can unlock extra benefits like easier access to EU grants or state land auctions. Don’t be put down by the requirement: it can also be obtained via 150 hours of (mostly online, often EU-financed) evening classes.
- Understand your diritti (rights) & doveri (duties): As mentioned, attaining coltivatore diretto or IAP status gives you rural land rights others don’t have – principally, the ability to build a house or structures on your farmland. You also get first dibs if anyone bordering your land decides to sell agricultural land. Each region has its rules, but typically if you own a few hectares and are a registered full-time farmer, you can get a permit to build a dwelling or expand existing farm buildings. You will also have to enroll in the farmers’ social security fund (special low-rate pensions scheme for farmers) and possibly a farmers’ insurance cooperative. These costs are not huge but ensure you’re covered for healthcare and will one day get a pension (albeit a rather paltry one as, historically, the legislator has considered that “a farmer’s land is their pension”. Low contributions = small pension).
- Comply with regulations: Italy’s rules on selling farm products are fairly pragmatic but do exist. If you sell value-added products (jams, cheeses, wine), you might need certifications or to follow hygiene rules in processing. If opening an agriturismo or farmstay, you’ll need to meet certain hospitality regulations (many are common-sense, like registering guests). Overall, the “bureaucratic burden” on a small farm is manageable – much of it can be handled with help from a local commercialista (accountant) and farmer associations like Coldiretti or CIA, which offer services to members. And unlike in some countries, direct farm sales in Italy don’t require endless permits – you can sell your veggies at the local market or from your farm shop freely, as long as you follow basic food safety laws.
Farming, of course, isn’t for everyone. It’s hard work, and success isn’t guaranteed – you’re subject to weather, global prices, and lots of physical labour. But Italy offers a combination of rich agricultural traditions, supportive policies, and existing market channels that can make a small farming venture rewarding both personally and financially. You’d be stepping into an ecosystem that values the little guy: the customers at the farmers’ markets who prefer chatting with you (the grower) over scanning a barcode at a supermarket, the regional programs that might help fund your organic apiary, the restaurants eager to put km0 (zero food-miles) ingredients on their menu from local farms.
At the very least, Italy makes it tempting. Where else could you buy a hillside vineyard, move in next door under a special farmer housing permit, pay almost no tax on your first years of revenue, and have a ready-made clientele of locals and tourists hungry for what you produce? You’d be tapping into a lifestyle that’s earthy, tradition-rich, and remarkably modern all at once – powered by centuries of knowledge but also by smartphone apps that link consumers directly to farm co-ops for deliveries. And you’d be helping fill a vital demographic gap, bringing new energy to fields that would otherwise lie fallow.
So, should you become a farmer in Italy? The provocative answer: Why not? In a country that celebrates those who cultivate its land, you wouldn’t just be making a living – you’d be preserving a way of life and enjoying la dolce vita in its purest form. And whether or not you don the farmer’s hat yourself, one thing is clear: embracing Italy’s direct-from-farm ethos – as a consumer or producer – is a win-win for your taste buds, your wallet, and the soul of Italian culture.
Sources:
Italian wholesale vs retail price analysis (ISMEA/supermarket data, collected and processed by Magic Towns)
Coldiretti and survey data on farmers’ markets
International price comparisons (UK Waitrose, US grocery)
UNESCO cultural heritage of transhumance
First-hand accounts of starting farming in Italy
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